Puesto Cagliero : A Guide to to Patagonia’s Secret Alpine Hut
In partnership with (delete if not needed)
Okay, maybe secret is a slight exaggeration. But the Puesto Cagliero Alpine hut was opened in 2021 and had it not been for a keen eye and an obsession with scouring google earth I would have no idea that this hut, which is now my favourite hidden gem in Patagonia existed.
Please note that this blog is in no way sponsored and the affilaite links are limited to the packing section. As much as I wish Chalten.com was partner of mine - they are not (yet). I genuinely love this little piece of paradise and although writing this may limit my chance to visit again - I do want you to be able to explore the magic that is Puesto Cagliero.
How to visit Puesto Cagliero
Puesto Cagliero is a small alpine hut located in Argentinian Patagonia. It is located within Los Huemules Mountain Reserve
How to get there
As Puesto Cagliero is avalaible to be booked on places like booking.com we heard from a few people that sometimes it is booked without the realization that you are not able to hike up to the hut. So here is my disclaimer : you must hike to Puesto Cagliero.
Now that we have that squared away. From the town of El Chaltén, the trailhead of this hike is the Los Huemules Mountain Reserve visitor center (google map : Estancia Los Huemules). It is a 17km car ride from town. There are a few options for this, you can book a private transfer (which is about $200USD round trip), a shared transfer (about $25USD per person round trip) or a public bus (about $17USD per person). If you have a rental car you can also drive yourself or, if you are so inclined, you can walk the road.
From the Los Huemules Mountain Reserve - the hike is 7km with 421m of elevation gain directly to the hut (it is 8.5km with 160m of gain if you opt to visit Azul and Verde lakes on the way). It is a really lovely, well marked, trail that meanders up Valle del Diablo toward Laguna Diablo (apparently it named the Devil’s Valley because in the autumn all of the trees turn bright red and it looks like its on fire). The trail follows the river with a lot of options to fill up water along the way and it in the forest so you are protected from the wind and rain (or snow).
Ways to Visit
Spend the night
This is my personal must-do for a unique visit to Patagonia. What I did, and would reccomend doing, is booking two nights at the hut to have a full day and truly enjoy being here. As you saw, it is a realtively short hike to and from the hut but what was unique about the Puesto Cagliero is that it does not actually go anywhere. Unlike the hut hikes in Europe - this is not part of a circuit nor does it connect two points. And aside from a few small day hikes thre isnt anywhere to go from the hut. Everyone who makes their way here has it as their final destination. There is something so intentional and beautiful about that to me.
And as beautiful as the hut and locaiton are - the energy it seems to posess is something that I can not quite describe.
Visit for lunch or afternoon tea
After I spent the night(s) at Puesto Cagliero - I immediately jumped into a backpacking trip that I had organized. On one of our final days the weather looked less than ideal and all of the big peaks were hiding in the clouds. As I picked the brains of all of my local friends and guides - I rememembered a father and son who, while I was first at Puesto Cagliero, stopped in for a dulce du leche crepe and afternoon coffee.
And so that was exactly what we did. I brought my group of six, plus Kelsey and our guide back to Puesto Cagliero for a gloomy day of hiking through the forest, eating crepes, drinking coffee and playing card games. It was magical.
This does need to be booked in advnace for groups - for one or two people you can simply show up and pay cash.
The options 2.5 is coming for lunch which does need to be booked in advance. And as I mentioned - is absolutely delicious.
How to book
To book overnight trips there are three main ways:
The first being via a travel agency. This will be the most expensive but if you have an agent booking the remainder of your trip this may be the easiest for you.
You can also book via booking.com just click this link and it will take you directly to the booking page.
The third option may be the most work but certinaly the least expensive. You can contact the hut directly via whatsapp - simply click this link to open the chat or book directly via this link.
The pricing structure is slightly complicated. But effectively you pay for the entire room (3 or 4 beds) regardless of how many people are in your group. So the more beds that are filled the less expensive it will be per person. Full board is always included in the price. But the range as of the time off wiring this blog (March 2024) is that for a single person in a room the cost would be $188USD but the cost for four people in the same shared room would be $610USD total (or $152.50 USD per person). You are never put in rooms with people you did not book with.
I also did notice that there is an additional 10% discount if you book directly with the property and also pay in cash (either USD or Argentinian Pesos - although they do not give a great exchange rate so I would take your USD and swap it in El Chaltén where you can get an exchange rate of ~ 1,100-1,200)
Amenities
Accommodations
The Refuge has capacity for 19. There are 4 quadruple rooms and one triple room. Each room features a private bathroom with hot showers clean linens, pillows, towels and a view of the glacier. Each room is private, which is why the pricing structure of the hut isnt straightforward. But you will never share a room with a stranger. This also means that it is extremely rare for the hut to be completely full. On our two nights there were eight and seven people on each of the respecitve nights (including Kelsy and I). The best financial value is to book as a group of four.
All of the bedrooms are located on the upper floor. The lower floor is home to the kitchen, reception, entrace/boot room and communal areas. It is open concept and as the afternoon comes around the large windows allow light to flood in. It looks out onto the Cagliero glacier. There are three large communal dining tables and a series of smaller benches and tables centred around a wood burning stove. The area is filled with books and games.
There are two toilets locaed on the main floor and there is a small amout of solar electricty. However, charging of devices is not permitted. I brought a charge block with me and was fine. It is used for the kitchen and lights in the evening.
Meals, snacks and drinks
The hut is full board which simply means that included in each night’s stay is breakfast, lunch, afternoon coffee and crepe and dinner.
For the lunch you can opt for either dine in or a packed lunch if you plan on being away during the day - this does need to be arranged the evening before. You will also be able to chose if you would like your lunch on the day of your arrival or departure.
It felt as though all allergies and dietary preferences were easily accomidated. While we were there we saw lactose intolerance, vegan, someone who was, vegetarian, pescitarian and seeral prefereces (including my dislike of ginger). And not only were the accomidations made but the food was delicious. There is also wine for purchase at an increadibly reasonble price.
As a note : coffee and breakfast is not until 9am. So if you are an early monring person… you may want to do as I did and bring your own jetboil.
Daily Schedule
9am - breakfast
12-2pm (flexible just let them know your preference) - lunch
5pm - afternoon cake and coffee/tea
7pm - hot water for shaowers
8:30pm - dinner
What to do
Self guided trails
From the refuge there are a few trails that can be done without a guide:
Laguna Azul and Verde
Loma del Diablo
The frest option can be done as part of the hike in or out. Laguna Verde is nothing special but Laguna Azul is absoloutley worth the detour. I have never in my life seen anything quite like the colour of this lake.
Guided expeditions
As much as I would have loved to do any or all of these, in all honesty I was unaware they eisted until I was already at the hut. Hece the reason for this blog piece. So I am pulling this informaiton from elchalten.com. There was also a lovely Scottish couple that we shared the hut with on our first night who hired a guide for the Ice trek Glacier Neumeyer and they highly recommended it. It included a hike, a via ferrata, lunch at the mouth of a glacier and a short walk on the ice its self.
I will note that even if you have your own gear and experience. The Mountain Preserve and Estancias are all private property and do not allow you to complete these trails without a local mountain guide. I do have recomendations for guides - leave a comment if you are itnerested in being put in contact with them.
Cerro 30 Aniversario
Full day hike up to the top of the Cerro 30 Aniversario, with views 360º views to the southern ice field and the Fitz Roy massif.
Ice trek Glaciar Neumeyer
Trekking through virgin terrain, via ferrata and hiking on a high mountain glacier with stunning views of the Fitz Roy hill range. Click here for more information and to book.
Superior Circuit of Shelters
It allows you to see in just one day the silhouettes of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre from height, the immensity of the Southern Ice Field.
Trekking on the Cagliero Glacier
Hike on the glavier that the hut overlooks, this mix of via ferrata (incouding several hanging bridges) and hiking on a high mountain glacier. Click here for more information.
Enjoy the Hut
This was my main objective when I visited Puesto Cagliero - I was over a month into my six week trip to South America with my only down days consisting of 8+ hour car rides (and I get motion sick). I wanted a forced rest. So with torrential downpour in the forecast. I booked a fer nights at this cozy alpine hut. I did yoga, drank coffee, ate delicious food, read books and laboured over maps.Without any wifi or cell phone zervice it was exactly what the doctor (aka me) ordered.
What to Pack
In an attempt to keep this blog from turning into a novel. I have created a small second blog with the packing list of what I would pack with me for two nights at Puesto Cagliero. You can find it by clicking this link or the button below.
General Information for Visiting El Chaltén
Argentina
Official language: Spanish.
National currency: Argentine Peso.
Passport: minimum 6 month validity
Visas for tourism: 90 day visa on arrival (free)
Mandatory Vaccinations: Yellow Fever Vaccine is mandatory in some areas (not Patagonia)
Electric network: 220V / 50Hz.
El Chaltén
National Direct Dialing Code: 02962.
International Direct Dialing Code: 0054 2962.
How to get there: Drive from El Calafate - 134 Km/ 125 mi (about 3 hours)
Nearest airport: El Calafate (FTE)
Climate in the austral summer: dry, windy and very variable.
Minimum average temperature: 33ºF (-1ºC) in winter.
Maximum average temperature: 59ºF (+15ºC) in summer.
ATM: Red Link, Banco Santa Cruz
Postal Mail: Correo Argentino.
Mobile network: 3G (Movistar and Claro) - some 4G/LTE is slowly becoming avalible
Fuel: gasoline and diesel.
