The Huemul Circuit : The Ultimate Guide to Argentinian Patagonia’s Secret Hike
In 2023, on my annual (North American) winter migration down to Patagonia I climbed on my first, true, Patagonian peak. It opened my eyes to all of the possibilities outside of the traditional W/O-Trek and Fitz Roy & Cerro Torre Circuit. You can read about those trips, and what I would recommend doing on your first ever trip to Patagonia via the link below.
However, after completing those, I began asking locals and guides akin for suggestions. And that is how I ended up here. On theThe Huemul Circuit.
This backpacking trip is a more challenging, four-day hike that has a little bit of everything: pampas fields (filled with cows) and forests, rivers and Tyrolean traverses, rocky moraines, iceberg-laden bays, and two very windy passes.
But the true highlight of the circuit are the views of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the largest non-polar ice mass on the planet.
Because of its proximity to world famous mountains (hello Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre), the Huemul Circuit trek is often overlooked and underrated. And therefore… not very busy!
What is the Huemul Circuit?
The Huemul Circuit is a moderate - difficult backpacking trip in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares just outside of El Chalten, Argentina. This multi day backpacking trip is moderate to challenging and should be undertaken by more seasoned backpackers (or with a guide). It offers unparalleled views of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The Huemul range is often overlooked and therefore far less crowded than other famous backpacking trips in Patagonia.
Trailhead: El Chalten Visitor Center
Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. September-April, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. May-August
Phone: +54-02962-493004 or +54-02962-493024
Location: From town, cross the bridge over Rio Fitz Roy and walk 500 meters. The wooden building will be on the right side of the road.
Distance: 57 kilometres (35 miles)
If you do not arrange transportation to be picked up at the end, add an extra 8km/5mi to the above distance
Total Elevation Gain: 3,378 metres (11,085 ft)
Highlights:
Technical Sections: 2 Tyrolean Traverses
Days to Complete: Four Days/ Three Nights
Difficulty: Moderate - Difficult
Best Time to Hike: December - February/March
Typical Weather: Unpredictable - high winds, rain, snow and sunburn can all be expected.
Hiker Traffic: Low
Huts/Cabins/Hotels: No
Cell Service: No
Wifi: No
In this blog
My Four Day Huemul Circuit Itinerary
My GPX Map
Tirolian Traverse
General Information for Visiting El Chaltén
My Four Day (three night) Huemul Circuit Itinerary
Day one
El Chaltén to Laguna Toro
Length: 16km (10mi)
Elevation: 750m gain, 650m loss (2,500ft gain, 2,100ft loss)
Difficulty: Moderate
Campsite amenities: Primitive camp sites (room for maybe 20 tents), water collected from the river, no toilet - human faces everywhere. Be careful.
Departing from El Chaltén, head south along the highway for ~500m, crossing a bridge until you arrive at the Visitors Centre (Centro de visitantes, Guardaparque Ceferino Fonzo, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Santa Cruz, Argentina). Although it is no longer necessary to pick up a physical permit (more on this below), this will be your last washroom and a great place to pop in a check the current weather forecast along the trail. There is also a short (10 minute) video about the hike it’s self. If you are opt’ing for a self guided hike - I would recommend stopping in before departing on your trip.
From the visitor’s centre - head west following the “Sendas” (Loma del Pliegue Tumbado - Laguna Toro) trail with the goal of Laguna Toro. Your first few kilometres hiking through pampas grass will reward you with beautiful views of the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre Group as you head deeper into the mountains. As you make your way towards Laguna Toro, views of Cerro Huemul will begin to open up. You will also be sharing a lot of your first day with a heard of cows who graze in the alpine pastures during the summer months.
Just before you arrive at the first night’s campsite there will be a series of shallow river crossings (and in the rainier season, marshlands). When we did the hike all of these streams either had makeshift bridges built or were shallow enough to cross by hopping exposed rock to exposed rock. During periods of heavier rain or during the early season runoff this may not be possible and sandals will be helpful… maybe necessary.
The first campsite of the Huemul Circuit is shared with several other circuits and will be the busiest of the trek. I would recommend having an early start and arriving to camp as early as possible to get a “better” campsite. The campground is a generally large open space pushed up against a rock wall with branches/logs stacked for wind protection sectioning off individual campsites. It is situated beside a large open green space perfect for a post hike stretch - and just shy of 1km to Laguna Torro if you are looking for a picturesque spot to eat dinner.
Note: The water from the streams is safe to drink without filtering.
Day two
Laguna Toro to Refugio Paso del Viento
Length: 15km (9.3mi)
Elevation: 925m gain, 650m loss (3,000ft gain, 2,200ft loss)
Difficulty: Challenging
Campsite amenities: Emergency cooking shelter, no outhouse, ten established camp sites as well as an open field, water collected from river
Leaving the Laguna Toro campground, you head toward the lake and skirt around hikers right. At the back of the lake there is a small scramble, follow the Carins and you will arrive at a flat riverbed that leads to the first of your Tyrolean traverses. If the campground is busy th first night you may want to consider leaving early in the morning as this will be a pinch point as groups set up and dismantle their systems. If you are alone, you may also want to sweet talk a guided group and join their traverse as it felt daunting to set up in a group of one or two. However, if the river is especially low, you may be able to ford it and skip this Tyrolean traverses altogether.
The next crux on day two comes in the form of Tunel Galcier. You will leave the Tyrolean traverse and skirt up an obvious moraine. From here you will have a few options. There are winding passes through the moraine on hiker’s left of the glacier. Personally I feel less comfortable on moraine territory between the soft moraine and hard underlying ice. We opt’ed to carefully hop onto Tunel Galcier - I would recommend sticking as far to hiker’s left as is safe and possible. If this makes you nervous you can bring with you a set of lightweight aluminum crampons. The glacier was covered with debris and if traveled carefully offered a lot of traction. Follow the obvious slope of the glacier and it will pop you back onto the moraine shortly.
Once back on the moraine there are a series of braiding paths that all lead you to one place, Paso del Viento. And when we did the hike in February of 2024… it lived up to its name. What was a beautiful blue sky day in the morning quickly turned into a windy blizzard at the pass (see photo below). As with anything else in Patagonia - the weather is unpredictable and I would try to complete any high point as early and quickly as possible. This is not a technically difficult pass but the weather can make it more challenging.
On the other side of the pass you will be rewarded with your first views of the Southern Patagonia Icefield! You simply follow the well defined trail down to hiker’s left.
Camp night two is at Refugio Paso del Viento. There is a small alpine lake that some very brave campers decided to polar plunge in for sunset. There is also a small refugio - this is not a refugio to sleep in but is to be used for protection from the wind while cooking.
To the west there are a series of moraines that offer spectacular views of the Southern Patagonia Icefield - we went up to watch the sunset and sunrise from some of the highpoints.
Day 3
Refugio Paso del Viento to Lago Viedma
Length: 18km (11.2 mi)
Elevation: 650m gain, 1,300m loss (2,100ft gain, 4,400ft loss)
Difficulty: Challenging
Campsite amenities: Two different camp sites, neither have outhouse, the first has mess than 10 came sites, the second is a very large open field beside the bay, water collected from lake
After breakfast and coffee at the campsite at Refugio Paso del Viento, continue along the trail as it contours along the hillside along the ice field. I would recommend taking plenty of breaks to take in the views. As the trail steepens toward Paso Huemul you will say a final goodbye to the icefield.
The pass can be windy but is lower and wider than Paso del Viento so it is far more manageable. The crus of day three comes when descending from the pass. The trail is narrow and extremely steep. There are sections of hard dirt that are almost impossible not to slip down. e careful and take this section slow. There are also two small top sections that you may want to rappel down.
Once you have completed the descent you will find yourself at Lago Viedma - there are two campsites. The first, Bahia de los Tempanos, is ideal. Which, and this will come across as bitter, as it should becuase months later I still am… our guides would not allow us to camp at. After researching it turns out that they were just being lazy as this would require an earlier morning on the final day. But it is marked on the interactive GPX map linked below. During glacier calving season you will be rewarded with a bay filled with icebergs, growlers and berry bits as well as a beautiful view of the toe of the glacier.
If for whatever reason, like us, you are not able to camp here, continue for a few more flat kilometres to the next bay for a large open field that accommodates large groups. This is called Bahia de Hornos - it offers a lovely open beach and will give you a shorter final day hiking out.
Day 4
Lago Viedma to Bahía Túnel to El Chaltén
Length: 18-26km (11-16 miles)
Elevation: 425m/1,400ft total gain & loss
Difficulty: Moderate
Leaving your camp on the shores of Lago Viedma, follow the trail through the pampas grass - you are back in ranch land and may, once again, encounter a few stray cows along your hike this day. Note: our guides ended up getting lost twice on this very first section so I would recommending having a GPS map downloaded. There are a few very mellow river crossings - none that required us to take our hiking boots off. The trail will eventually meander hikers left and bring you up into the hills on an extremely obvious path.
At your highpoint you will have beautiful views over Lago Viedma, as you descend the other side you will be near the mouth of Bahía Túnel (Tunnel Bay). At the base of the hill there will be a sign directing you to the second and final Tyrolean of the hike. This one it will be difficult to avoid. The river is wide, fast flowing and deep. This traverse is also quite a bit easier to set up and you already have practise from day one… right?
From the Tyrolean traverse is a very mellow walk on a closed road alongside the lakeshore to the end of your hike. That is, if you arranged transportation back to town in advance, which I would personally recommend. If not, it is an additional 8km.5mi road walk back into town. A lot of people successfully hitchhike this section but I have heard too many horror stories about this not being possible and the additional 8km/5mi on an already long day feels like physical and mental torture to me.
Note: on your permit application you will need to note which day you plan on finishing the Huemul Circuit. If you fail to return within 48 hours of that date, they’ll send a search and rescue team out to find you.
My GPX Map
Tirolian Traverse
Must Have Gear:
Harness
A brief how-to:
I recommend watching a few YouTube videos on this for a visual before attempting.
Traverse without your backpack. Do not attempt to rappel across a line while wearing a pack.
Clip in to the main climbing line. Your first point of connection is the non-steel locking carabiner, placed directly between the belay loop of your harness and the pully.
Have a backup. The easiest way to do this is to attach the safety line from your harness to the cable with the steel carabiner.
Attach your backpack. Clip it directly to the steel carabiner as well (via the haul loop on your backpack, or better yet, via the haul loop and one more attachment point, such as a shoulder strap).
Grab onto the line. Traverse the line using your hands. You will have your back facing the ground - look up at the line alive your head (where you are going). Using a hand over hand method steadily cross the line. Let your core do the work—not your back. And go slowly, ensuring that you do not catch you hands in the bully (it will hurt - trust me). The steadier you go the less you will sway side to side. Slow and steady.
Disembark safely. Detach your backpack first and secure it behind you on steady ground. Then, stabilize yourself and undo your carabiner from the pully.
*Note: always put the steel carabiner (not aluminum) on the steel wire.
What to pack
This is based on a four -day, three-night unsupported trip.
Planning
Guided or Self-Guided
Guided
If this is your first bigger multi day hike, your first solo trip or you are looking to enjoy the trip and worry less about where to go and when to leave - absolutely get a guide.
Self-Guided
If you are more experienced (read: have backcountry camped at all in North America) and/or are looking for a challenge and some solitude this is for you. Using a map and basic understanding of landmarks the trail is relatively easy to follow - I downloaded the offline maps on the apps maps.me and MapOut and ensured I had my Garmin inReach with me. The campgrounds were all busy and there were plenty of people on the trial. It requires very little more than an understanding of the terrain - a little bit of specialized equipment for the Tyrolian Traverse and backpacking gear.
When researching for this blog I realized how challenging it is to find even the most basic of information on availability, options and booking. There are absolutely less expensive ways to visit Patagonia and to do this hike, but if you are looking for some peace of mind and have the money to spend to save time, energy and a multitude of headaches.
Permitting
A free permit is required in order to hike the Huemul Circuit. You can find and fill it out here: Huemul Circuit Permit. You are no longer required to obtain a physical permit from the visitors centre - however, I would still recommend stopping as they will have updated trail conditions and other pertinent information. There is also an optional short film that you can watch about the hike its self.
General Information for Visiting El Chaltén
Argentina
Official language: Spanish.
National currency: Argentine Peso.
Passport: minimum 6 month validity
Visas for tourism: 90 day visa on arrival (free)
Mandatory Vaccinations: Yellow Fever Vaccine is mandatory in some areas (not Patagonia)
Electric network: 220V / 50Hz.
El Chaltén
National Direct Dialing Code: 02962.
International Direct Dialing Code: 0054 2962.
How to get there: Drive from El Calafate - 134 Km/ 125 mi (about 3 hours)
Nearest airport: El Calafate (FTE)
Climate in the austral summer: dry, windy and very variable.
Minimum average temperature: 33ºF (-1ºC) in winter.
Maximum average temperature: 59ºF (+15ºC) in summer.
ATM: Red Link, Banco Santa Cruz
Postal Mail: Correo Argentino.
Mobile network: 3G (Movistar and Claro) - some 4G/LTE is slowly becoming avalible
Fuel: gasoline and diesel.
*Please note that some of the links above are affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission on any purchase made - at no additional cost to you. As always, all ideas and opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own. Thank you for your support!
