The Tour du Mont Blanc {part two} - my Seven Days around Mont Blanc
I found myself with exactly one week to spare - between the Tour d’Erna and crewing a friend for his run of the UTMB - already planning on being in Chamonix, and having completed part of the Tour du Mont Blanc in 2021 (via the Haute Route) I thought that I might as well chip away a little bit more of this world famous hike. And so with very little planning but all of the gear. I set out for one week of (modified) solo hiking of the TMB. I did, one again, opt to stay in huts over camping. And my days were quite long but unlike the Haute Route, my bag was quite light this time!
For everything you should know before hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc check out my intro to the TMB guide below.
And for my full overview of what to pack when setting out on the TMB (mini or otherwise) check out my packing guide.
My Tour du Mont Blanc
I planned this with the help of The Hiking Club. They create personal custom tours of many of the major hiking routes in the Alps.
Overview:
Difficulty: Medium
Distance: 99.8 km /62 miles
Duration: 7 days
Highest point: 2,526m / 8,287 ft
Total elevation gain: 6,694 meters / 21,962 ft
Number of mountain passes: 11
Before the hike - Chamonix
I would recommend spending at least a few days in Chamonix. Not only because it will help keep jet lag at bay but also it is a really vibey town. There are a ton of great restaurants and coffee shops and if you happened to forget anything at home - outdoor stores galore.
Some highlights of Chamonix:
Best coffee : Moody Coffee Roasters
Great outdoor lunch : La Fabrica
Best burgers : Poco Loco (you have to, its amazing)
Best pizza : JOIA by Pizzeria Des Moulins (be prepared to wait)
Where to get trail supplies : Snell Sports. There are many sports stores in Chamonix and all major outdoor brands have stand alone stores. if you forgot anything you will be covered.
Where to get groceries : I like “Le Petit Casino” but Spar has a much larger selection.
Day one
starting point : Chamonix (fr)
distance : 18.99 km /11.8 mi
elevation gain : 699 m / 2293.31
elevation loss : 1,211 m / 3973.0971
transport : Yes - Chamonix Tunnel Bus + Val Ferret Bus Green Line + Checrouit lifts
daily trail time : 4 h 45 min
ending point : Refuge Maison Vieille (it)
thoughts
I was confused as to why the Hiking Club had me hiking in the wrong direction just to double back. And in all honesty - I almost needed to skip it after forgetting to reserve a seat on the bus. You can book it here (there is another bus but it is much more expensive and less reliable). Take the very first bus of the day. It will bring you UNDER Mont Blanc and after a casual 30 minutes you will be transported to Italy (Courmayeur to be exact). After the drop off I took the Val Ferret Bus Green Line (make sure you are going in the correct direction - I made this mistake and ended up on the wrong side of the valley and had to hitchhike back…. it wasted a lot of time and tears). This bus is paid for by the town of Courmayeur.
After the bus debacle. You begin the hike. And boy was this backtracking detour worth it. Arguably the very best views the first half of my hiking trip. Unobstructed Mont Blanc in all if its glacial and jagged peak beauty.
Stop at Rifugio Walter Bonatti for lunch. Eat on the patio. Enjoy the sunshine before continuing on. I did also stop at Rifugio Giorgio Bertone for a coffee before my descent back into Courmayeur. I will say that the staff were preeeeety rude. And the coffee mediocre - next time I would get a can of coke.
The descent into Courmayeur is a pain (but made me happy that I had decided to do the trail clockwise (opposite what most hikers do). Into Courmayeur for a quick ice cream and then I took the “DOLONNE CABINLIFT” and the “MAISON VIELLE CHARILIFT” to Refuge Maison Vieille - you can find information about their pricing and hours of operation here.
Refuge Maison Vieille is a vibe. I don’t know how else to explain it. It is all dorm style and I would not say that it is the most comfortable. The door remained open all night and they have donkeys roaming the property. The food is incredible. The owner is someone I would have most certainly proposed marriage to and overall it is was a very fun experience. But on the hotel to hostel scale - it is deeeeep in hostel territory. I also do not eat pork right now (no reason - just not in the mood) and after our pasta first course was given a plate of cheese which is exactly what I like (followed by dessert).
Note : my rule with this hike, after suffering on the Haute Route - and knowing that I had two marathons I was training for. Was that if the lift did not rake away form the views and saved my legs. I was taking it. This lift for instance just went up a ski lift. And most of the hike would have even in the forest. No views missed and over 1,000m of gain saved.
Day two
starting point : Refuge Maison Vieille (it)
distance : 20 km / 12.4 mi
elevation gain : 1,224 m / 4015.748
elevation loss : 1,390 m / 4560.367
transport : none
total hiking time : 6 h 10 min
ending point : Auberge de la Nova (fr)
thoughts
Leaving Refuge Maison Vieille - the hike is gorgeous and meanders along a small bench that overlooks a glacial valley. I did opt to take the alternative route and honestly…. cannot recommend it. It adds some elevation gain (although I am told that the main trial does come up quite a ways to meet it) and once you gain the ridge line there is a beautiful view. However you quickly tuck into the adjacent valley. And hike along a beautiful meadow filled with small lakes and rolling hills. Which feels very quintessentially Swiss (I know, it is Italy). But I did feel as though I was robbed of my glacier views. So take that for whatever you like. Also, you will not pass any huts along the high route (there are three on the main trail) so your lunch will need to either be very late or packed with you.
After crossing into France (bonjour!) you drop down a series of switchbacks to Refuge des Mottets - which is where I had a light lunch before continuing onto the La ville des Glaciers that, and yes you are reading this correctly, is home to a cheesemaker. I just about died. This is my heaven - a village named glacier that makes cheese. Unfortunately the cheese shop was closed so that the cheesemaker could nap. But I was able to buy some cheese in Chapieux.
From La ville des Glaciers you can either do a few kilometres of walking along the road… or take a short but ride for 4€ (you can guess which I took) to arrive in Chapieux - your home for the night.
Note : I booked into Auberge de la Nova and found the staff to be kind of rude. I arrived at 2:30pm and had I know I would be so early I think I would have pushed on and booked into Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (terrible coffee - great vibes - incredible views).
But that is not the point. Chapieux is a tiny town with no cell phone service and a large camping area. It consists of two hotels/hostels and one store. The store -L´Epicerie des Chapieux - offers 30 minutes of wifi for 3€ if you are in a pinch. I did have an afternoon coffee and half pizza here. 10/10 recommend. I think in retrospect I would skip the half board at Auberge de la Nova and have dinner and breakfast (I don’t think they serve breakfast but they do have cheese and bread and coffee and I don’t know what else you could want) at L´Epicerie des Chapieux. Much much better food, you can pick what you want to eat and a fraction of the price (plus, wifi).
Note : Auberge de la Nova is cash only.
Day three
starting point : Auberge de la Nova (fr)
distance : 10.7 km / 6.6 mi
elevation gain : 968 m / 3175.85
elevation loss : 809 m / 2654.2
transport : none
daily trail time : 4 h 15 min
ending point : Refuge de la Balme (fr)
thoughts
This is my day of confession. It ended up being really rainy and I could barely see my outstretched arm. I woke up, ate breakfast at Auberge de la Nova - and then packed up my belongings. As there is no internet in the town of Chapieux - I was unable o check the weather or many any plan until I made it up the pass to the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (I stopped ere for coffee - it is cash only and, as mentioned, arguably the worst coffee I have had in my life - but beautiful views). And so that is what I did. After a quick stop at the store for a brick of cheese and a can of paprika Pringles - I hiked up to the pass in this thick fog and intermittent rain. And checked the weather.
It was not letting up and as you can see, it was a relatively short day for me so I decided to combine days three and four. But I want to leave it for this itinerary as planned - because it was a horrifically long day - and had there been any views I would have most certainly kept with the plan.
A note : if you reserve huts the reservation fee is non refundable. I stopped into Refuge de la Balme to let them know I would not be coming. I had already paid 40 euro deposit and asked if I could have a cup of coffee given hat I would not be eating the dinner or having the breakfast that I had paid for. That was a very hard no.
Day four
starting point : Refuge de la Balme (fr)
distance : 20.12 km / 12.5 mi
elevation gain : 1,380 m / 4527.559
elevation loss : 1,238 m / 4061.6798
transport : Yes - Bellevue Cable Car + Bus line 1 between Les Houches and Chamonix
total hiking time : 6 h 60 min
ending point : Chamonix (fr)
thoughts
From Refuge de la Balme - take the alternative to the bench overlooking Mont Blanc. Although my views were completely obstructed. As I hiked the opposite way to everyone else on the trail I was able to speak with people about their favourite parts of the trail. And this alternate route was definitely one of them.
Update : I ended up going back to France a few weeks after my original trek and hiked this section of the trail. It is absolutely beautiful - and worth the alternate route. After day three of hiking in the forest and more Swiss countryside fews than French glaciers - you are back int he sweet spot. I stayed at Chaltes de Miage - and would recommend stopping here for lunch (or staying the night). Aside from a few spicy refuge staff. The food was delicious (soup followed by a potato omelette and salad, a cheese board and then arguably the best dessert on the hike - a blueberry pie with whipped cream) - the room is a very large shared accommodation but I believe that it is possible to book individual rooms or small chalets if you plan far enough in advance.
Day five
starting point : Chamonix (fr)
distance : 8.87 km / 5.5 mi
elevation gain : 781 m / 2562.34
elevation loss : 435 m / 1427.17
transport : yes - Brévent Cable Car
daily trail time : 3 h 15 min
ending point : Refuge du Lac Blanc (fr)
thoughts
After a fresh shower in Chamonix, breakfast and a coffee from Moody’s I made my way up the mountain. Of course, taking the Brévent Cable Car. It was sunny in the valley below but as I gained elevation I was in a cloud (the woman at the ticket counter did warn me of this and strongly advised me against going up - I appreciated her looking out for the girlies a lot).
But I had a reservation and made me way up. hiking through the fog. I hear these views are incredible. But it looks like I will have to come back another time.
I made it to Refuge du Lac Blanc early afternoon. There is no wifi but a small amount of cell signal. I was put in a room filled with men which I am generally fine with but do feel that some women would not be comfortable with so I asked about the possibility of being in a room with women. It was another very hard no.
The cabin is cozy - but we were in the fog all evening and I think becuase it is so easily accessible people are a lot less friendly. it felt less like a hut and more like I was seated next to people at a restaurant in the city. I did meet a great group of girls from New Zealand eventually but before that kind of just sat and twirled my thumbs. The only time I felt alone on the trail. Dinner was very… mediocre at best. Again on my no pork train it was sausages - so we were given hard boiled eggs that were extremely overcooked and then cold Dahl. We were also rushed out of the dining room immediately following dinner. And then to bed - a sleeping pill and ear plugs were my best finds this evening.
note: Refuge du Lac Blanc is cash only. And there is no potable water - you must purchase water or bring your filter.
Day six
starting point : Refuge du Lac Blanc (fr)
distance : 16.92 km / 10.5 mi
elevation gain : 1,601 m / 5252.6247
elevation loss : 1,246 m / 4087.9265
transport : Yes - Domaine de Balme (Le tour Vallorcine) chairlift/gondola
daily trail time : 7 h 20 min
ending point : Refuge Albert 1er (fr)
thoughts
Thank goodness when I woke up the clouds had cleared and I understood why Refuge du Lac Blanc is so popular. It was beautiful - expansive views of the Mont Blanc Massif. Sunrise was incredible. I took photos - filmed part of my packing video - and then went in to breakfast. I think the common thread with Refuge du Lac Blanc is that everything is really skimpy. Dinner was a small portion and you were ushered out. Breakfast was two (no more) pieces of a bread, a small portion of butter and jam. A small cup of coffee and a thimble of orange juice. No water. Once again ushered out before you have a chance to swallow your last bite. Also… it is expensive. I am not saying to NOT book it but I would like you to know what you are getting into with it.
I left the hut and continued along. This day was interesting becuase you have a small ladder section, followed by a gorgeous bench you walk along. And then you drop down to the valley floor before ascending out of the town of Le Tour. I did decide to have lunch in Le Tour at a restaurant called Le Passon - I ordered a bottle of coke and a potato roti with cheese and wild mushrooms. Do this. It is so so good.
And then the ascent. This was day one of the Haute Route - and it is the day that broke me. I climbed half way up this mountainside under the gondola line and cried, I was so hot and tired and weak. So this time… I took the dang gondola! And the chairlift! This is the Domaine de Balme (Le tour Vallorcine) and brings you up to a small pass. It is still another hour or two of hiking (with a substantial gain) to Refuge Albert 1er - but the assist makes it a much happier day.
You might ask why I decided to go to Refuge Albert 1er - when it is a clear detour from my route and also I had been before. The answer is simple - it is my all time favourite hut. it is perched on the edge of a glacier. And it is not really tourists who go as it is a big detour from both the TMB and the Haute Route. Most of the people who visit this hut have climbing objectives. I find this crowd a lot more enjoyable to be around.
Dinner was great - sunset was incredible. And I ended up having a room to myself. It felt like the perfect close to my little solo hut trip.
Day seven
starting point : Refuge Albert 1er (fr)
distance : 4,2 km / 2.6 mi
elevation gain : 41 m / 134.514
elevation loss : 561 m / 1840.55
transport : Domaine de Balme (Le tour Vallorcine) chairlift/gondola + Bus from Le Tour to Chamonix
daily trail time : 0 h 60 min
ending point : Le Tour / Chamonix (fr)
thoughts
Perfect ending until I accidentally put my camera down the wrong way and shattered its screen. Oh well.
The nice thing about climbing huts is that breakfast is as early as you want it to be (it begins at 3am and runs until 7am - most huts do not even start breakfast until 7/8am which is hard for early starts or sunrises). I woke up before then, took a few astro photos and then ate breakfast and said goodbye to the climbers as they one by one left the hut.
I slowly packed my bag (finished recording this video) and then made my way down. I realized at some point that if I hustled I could make it in time to go for a run with some friends. So I got back on the Domaine de Balme (Le tour Vallorcine) chairlift/gondola combo and then onto a bus that took me right into Chamonix.
fin.
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